The secret life of…cormorants
In the calm sanctuary of winter, the Cornish coastline takes a deep breath and the secrets of the shoreline reveal themselves. This Secret Season, we’re uncovering the secret lives of some of our natural treasures that come into their own this time of year.
Wade through the sea’s shallows on a still winters’ day and you might just see a sleek black head pop up beside you, point its sharp beak to the sky, then arch up and dive out of sight again. You’ve just spotted a cormorant! Whether good omen or storm heralder, symbol of courage or gluttonous devil, the tales that surround this mysterious seabird are as fickle and fathomless as the waters it dives in.
“Cormorants are fishing masters, spending almost as much of their time under water as above it.”
Image credit: Abbi Hughes
What exactly is a cormorant?
With a name which loosely translates as ‘sea crow’, the cormorant is a large black waterbird that’s almost prehistoric in appearance thanks to its vivid green eyes, hooked bill and long neck. Cormorants are fishing masters, spending almost as much of their time under water as above it. Often hunting in groups, they take little leaps on the surface of the sea before diving deep and swimming deep low – their heads tipped up to catch prey.
Most common around estuaries where they nest on low cliffs, the UK holds internationally significant wintering numbers of cormorants, making the colder months prime time for spotting them.
Image credit: Gina Goodman
“In Norwegian tradition, it’s believed spirits of loved ones lost at sea take the form of cormorants to visit living relatives, while in cosmic symbology the birds represent resourcefulness, courage and ingenuity.”
What’s more, cormorants are faithful to their territories, with generations of birds often returning to and breeding in, the same place year after year. If you’ve visited Cornwall and spotted cormorants somewhere before, it’s likely you’ll see the same birds, or at least the same family on your next visit down.
What’s the story?
Cormorants have long been the subject of folklore and fable, though not always good.
In Norwegian tradition, it’s believed spirits of loved ones lost at sea take the form of cormorants to visit living relatives, while in cosmic symbology the birds represent resourcefulness, courage and ingenuity. However, cormorants have also led a troubled existence alongside humans, marred by their silent, fast, and astoundingly resilient nature.
As natural historian and author Richard King notes in his book, The Devil’s Cormorant, they are, “the most misunderstood of waterfowl.” The only creature on Earth that can migrate the length of a continent, is able to dive and hunt up to 45 metres underwater and can feed on thousands of different species – over the centuries and across cultures they’ve been portrayed as emblems of gluttony, selfishness and downright bad luck – the superstitious warning that a storm is looming, or the pest responsible for scaring away the fish.
Image credit: Abbi Hughes
When can you see them?
Regardless of their divisiveness, the cormorant’s intrigue is undeniable; the way they suddenly appear, disappear and reappear great distances apart in the blink of an eye – as if they are putting on a show just for you.
If you’re eager to see them in full flow, winter is a great time to catch a performance because the water tends to be quieter, fewer swimmers, waveriders and other distractions. Dawn or dusk are particularly striking times to go spotting, when the wind slows and the water turns to glass.
“If you’re north coast based, the rockpools at Godrevy provide a perfect sheltered swimming retreat for the birds when the sea is too rough. Spot them in the Sheeps Pool at Gwithian or the cluster of rocks by the Red River that flows into the sea by Godrevy Lighthouse.”
Scan the surface closely for ripples and you might just see one pop up, throw its head back and swallow its catch, before bracing itself for a little leap and dive under again.
Where should you go?
Swanpool nature reserve near Falmouth is a popular resting spot for cormorants. You can usually find five or six taking a breather on the manmade rafts in the middle of the lake by the beach. Do an early morning lap and keep an eye out, before heading to Swanpool Beach Café to pick up a luxury hot chocolate and freshly baked croissant for breakfast.
If you’re north coast based, the rockpools at Godrevy provide a perfect sheltered swimming retreat for the birds when the sea is too rough. Spot them in the Sheeps Pool at Gwithian or the cluster of rocks by the Red River that flows into the sea by Godrevy Lighthouse.
“Their specialist feathers are very helpful, they don’t trap as much insulating air which helps them overcome their natural buoyancy”
The sky darkens early in the winter which makes stunning sun sets more family friendly. Park up in the National Trust car park on the top cliffs at Godrevy for a good explore of the beach below, before returning to the cliff at around 4.30pm for an unrivalled view as the sun sinks, then head to Lula Shack on Godrevy Towans for a seafood and ribs feast for dinner.
Most surprising cormorant secret…
They might be faster than fish underwater, but cormorant’s feathers aren’t waterproof so you’ll often spot cormorants on the rocks with their wings spread wide, drying off in the breeze. However, despite lacking water resistance their specialist feathers are actually very helpful, they don’t trap as much insulating air which helps them overcome their natural buoyancy. Cormorants may also swallow pebbles to help them sink.
Read Katie Tregidden’s poem The Cormorant inspired by this very bird, part of her series as Gwithian Poet in Residence.
Stay in Falmouth, Hayle and St Ives this #SecretSeason and find your ultimate cormorant-spotting winter retreat.
