Author: gloversure

10 of the Best Roasts on The Coast | Cornwall

What better way to reward a Sunday stroll along the coast than with a hearty roast beside the beach? Here are some of the best places for a roast in Cornwall just a pebble’s throw from the waves..

Fancy staying in a holiday retreat with a log burner? Check out our cottages with a log burner for a cosy getaway.

Trevone Bay

Port William, Trebarwith Strand

Explore Trebarwith Strand at low tide and you can splash in the rock pools, jump in the waves and stroll along the sugary sands. Or perhaps you’d prefer a cliff-top ramble to neighbouring Tintagel, with its eye-popping scenery and sea-lashed fortress ruins? Whichever you choose, once you’ve mustered an appetite in the briny air, retreat to the beachside Port William for a legendary Sunday roast. Book a sea-facing table or hunker by the fire with your dog at your feet, and tuck into delicious seasonal food and local ales in this boutique coastal inn.

theportwilliam.co.uk

The Mariners, Rock

When Paul Ainsworth took the helm of this water’s-edge venue in May 2019, there was little doubt that his foodie reputation, teamed with Sharp’s Brewery beers, would prove a winning combination. Whether you’ve stomped along the coast path from Polzeath or floated across by boat from Padstow, this is a stunning location to dine with views over the Camel Estuary. Sunday lunch is a celebration of finest local ingredients, with classic Cornish Dexter beef sirloin and saddleback pork belly roasts alongside contemporary vegetarian and seafood options.

paul-ainsworth.co.uk/the-mariners/about/

Catch, Mawgan Porth

Sunday’s were made for surfing and wild walks on the beach and cliffs. So after a dip in the waves at Mawgan Porth, and a stroll along the cliff tops to the spectacular Bedruthan Steps, tuck into a roast by the coast at Catch Seafood Bar and Grill. Hunkered beside the beach, within easy reach of the sandy runway and Atlantic rollers, this contemporary beach-chic restaurant serves up hearty roast dinners and classic seafood dishes, not to mention the best Bloody Mary on the North Coast.

catchmawganporthbeach.co.uk

Read our blog to find out about what Watergate Bay, Newquay has to offer at Christmas, especially at night.

Lewinnick Lodge, Fistral

Perched on the wave-lashed Pentire headland, Lewinnick Lodge is a sublime location to eat and drink on any day of the week. Originally an 18thth century cottage that has since posed as a smugglers’ den and a lobster hold, here you can clap eyes on the Atlantic, and often spot passing pods of dolphins. From classic roast dinners to catch of the day, it’s the perfect spot to while away a Sunday afternoon after a surf on the famous Fistral beach or a windswept coastal walk around Pentire Headland.

lewinnicklodge.co.uk

Summerhouse, Perranporth

Warm up and enjoy wintery beach views from a contemporary dining spot overlooking the waves from a prime cliff-top location. Warm your cockles with soup of the day, before a delicious platter of slow-roasted beef or lamb, with all the trimmings including swede mash, pickled red cabbage and Yorkshire puddings. Or perhaps you’d prefer a baked fish dish or veggie risotto? Whichever you choose, make sure you’ve worked up enough of an appetite to squeeze in a lip-smacking dessert, such as panna cotta or platter of Cornish cheeses.

thesummerhouse.co.uk

The Old Coastguard, Mousehole

Situated in a stunning seaside village, with views to the fishing boats and St Clement’s Rock (where you’ll often spot basking seals), The Old Coastguard is a stylish and laid-back setting to enjoy Cornwall’s finest food and drink. Add to that an award-winning chef, Jamie Porter, serving up three-course Sunday lunches showcasing Cornwall’s finest game, beef and poultry, as well as seafood landed nearby in Newlyn and just-picked seasonal veg. To top it all off there’s some incredible walking territory on the doorstep, such as the six-mile loop to Lamorna Cove, that takes you from boulder-strewn beaches, past Tater Du lighthouse, and through the magical woodland of Kemyel Crease.

oldcoastguardhotel.co.uk

Gurnards Head, Nr Zennor

Minutes’ walk from one of the wildest stretches of Cornwall’s coastline, kick off your walking boots, chill out with the dog at your feet and sample Cornish ales, fine wines and a Sunday roast packed with produce plucked from the coast and countryside. As well as classic beef and lamb dishes, there are modern seafood and veggie dishes, created from seasonal and foraged ingredients. When you’re fuelled up and ready to hit the coast path again, follow the narrow promontory to find the remains of an Iron Age cliff castle (keep dogs on leads), and then wander alongside the crystal waters of Pendour and Porthglaze coves, searching for a legendary mermaid on your way to Zennor.

gurnardshead.co.uk

Star and Garter, Falmouth

An award-winning gastro-pub boasting dreamy sea views, The Star and Garter takes Sunday lunch very seriously indeed. From moorland-aged rump of beef to Cornish roast pork served with the best crackling, all the meat is supplied by renowned local butcher Phillip Warren. And it’s and served with crispy duck-fat roasties, monster Yorkies, silky gravy and a selection of local, seasonal veg. So, bring your best appetite, kickback by the fire and soak up sea views while feasting on artisan ingredients cooked up by some of Cornwall’s most talented chefs.

starandgarterfalmouth.co.uk

Check out more of what Falmouth has to offer by staying in one of our bespoke retreats in Falmouth.

The Longstore, Charlestown

Priding itself on serving locally sourced food from the land and sea, The Longstore is a bright and contemporary venue nestled beside Charlestown harbour. Admire the historic tall ships, paddleboard around the bay or a take a coastal walk to Porthpean, before tucking into classic house dishes such as Cornish mussels and crispy squid, and the centrepiece of the supreme Longstore Roast. Low and slow-cooked Cornish beef, slow-roasted rolled pork belly, roast chicken and nut roast, come with all the trimmings you could wish for, including rich red wine gravy, Yorkshire puddings, stuffing, rosemary and garlic roasted potatoes, cauliflower cheese, swede and carrot mash, roasted root vegetables, and seasonal greens.

thelongstore.co.uk

Pandora Inn, Mylor

The best way to arrive at this divine estuary-edge venue is by boat, kayak or even paddleboard. But whether you arrive under sail, by bike, on foot or by car, it’s worth making the journey to this timeless 13th century inn on the banks of the beautiful Restronguet Creek. Take a seat on the pontoon and unreel your crabbing line, or choose a cosy nook inside this historic inn to tuck into a classic Sunday roast, loaded with the finest ingredients from Cornish farmers and local suppliers.

pandorainn.com

If all this talk of Cornish roasts has you hungry, check out our last minute availability and head to the coast. Find a retreat in one of our beach locations.

Search self-catering holidays in Cornwall

No Drive Delights: Croyde

Setting out from Serenity on foot reveals a hidden coffee hut, a quiet tree-lined footpath and an adrenalin-spiked coasteering adventure away from the jostling beach crowds…

It’s mid-morning on the late August Bank Holiday in Croyde. The village thrums with the excited babble of beachgoers looking to make the most of the generous surf lapping the shore. We escape the throngs and head into the village centre; its quaint whitewashed stone cottages and thatched roofs teasing stories of a bygone age.

Foregoing the ice cream shops and stores that sell surfing paraphernalia, we opt to amble down the lane behind Billy Budd’s pub to pick up a cortado from The Coffee Hatch. This quirky converted horsebox with comfy outdoor sofas and bench seating is tucked away from the main thoroughfare. We then calmly catch our breath while perusing the limited-edition surf tees and hoodies from Stolen Goods art studio next door.

Fancy staying in a holiday retreat with a hot tub? Check out our cottages with a hot tub for a relaxing getaway.

“We pause to take in the moment, struck that this haven can be found in the centre of a bustling village.”

Caffeine fix found, we meander back towards the beach, following the tree-lined footpath which cuts through the village centre. The path dissects across serene green fields where the only sound is the rustle of leaves and the hypnotic noise of a flock of house martins who duck, dive and dance across the landscape. We pause to take in the moment, struck that this haven can be found in the centre of a bustling village.

Coastline sights

Energised, we follow the coastal path towards Baggy Point which offers exceptional views back towards Croyde Beach. Wave after wave sends holidaymakers bouncing, bobbing and bellowing with delight as they surf, swim and bodyboard on the incoming tide.

The coastline then transforms into a series of folds and fractures with rocky outcrops spilling out into the sea and reaches a crescendo of dramatic cliffs once we cross the headland. We stop to admire the vistas across to Lundy Island and Morte Point, amused by the guttural squawking of herring gulls who skim the cliff face to chastise the humans intruding on their patch.

Discover tranquillity at Gaia, a serene Beach Retreats property

Glad to be wearing our sturdy walking boots, we plough onwards over stiles and gorse towards the unspoilt oasis of Putsborough Sands. However, its silky white shores are an adventure for another day. Instead we ascend the hills and hedgerows back towards Baggy Point car park.

On the rocks

We find refreshment in the form of a Devon cream tea (clotted cream before jam!) within the beautiful walled gardens at Sandleigh Tea-Room. We then wander back to Serenity to pick up our beach towels and swimwear in anticipation of an afternoon’s rock jumping with Coasteering Croyde Bay.

“Blood pumping, we take turns to plunge feet first into a natural swimming pool.”

Kitted out with wetsuits, buoyancy aids and helmets – and armed with useful safety tips – we walk the few hundred yards back along the path towards Baggy Point. Our instructor Albi guides us down onto the craggy rocks which are to be our playground for the next couple of hours. Taking a few moments to find our feet, we soon scramble along the coast, in and out of gullies, discovering the marine life, fauna and seabirds which call this shoreline home as we go.

Blood pumping, we take turns to plunge feet first into a natural swimming pool. As we surrender ourselves to the briny blue and spring back to the surface, it’s hard not to feel pure exhilaration.

“Although the temperature is starting to dip, we give in to kicking off our shoes.”

Dining-out on the dusk

After a day of sea air, it’s tempting to stay at Serenity and pick up a takeaway from one of the seasonal street food vans at our neighbouring campsites. Instead, keen to catch a glimpse of a spectacular sunset, we stroll across the now much quieter beach towards Downend at the opposite end of the bay.

Although the temperature is starting to dip, we give in to kicking off our shoes. Barefoot, the cool grains of sand rub between our toes and sweet sanderlings scurry away from the tide nipping at their heels.

At Downend car park, The Beach Cafe dishes up lip-puckeringly-good Sri Lankan curries during the summer months, which we tuck into, chased with ice-cool beers from Bodhi’s Surf Bar next door. As we gaze out over the horizon, the sun calls time on another day, casting a spectacular glow across the rippling ocean. We take it all in – before slowly strolling back to Serenity.

Quirky coffee stop-offs, havens found, and exhilarating exploration – leave the car behind for the day when you stay by the sea…

 

Discover the charm and beauty of Croyde in North Devon, where stunning landscapes and coastal adventures await with Beach Retreats.

What’s on this October half term in Cornwall

October half term is the perfect time to reconnect with family and nature alike in Cornwall. Blustery beaches, lively surf and a jam-packed schedule of family-friendly events make half-term week one not to miss. See what’s on for October half-term 2023 below.

Book your October half term stay with 20% off selected retreats.

Fancy staying in a holiday retreat with a log burner? Check out our cottages with a log burner for a cosy getaway.

Falmouth Oyster Festival

12th – 15th October 2023

This festival celebrates the start of the oyster dredging season. A five-day festival packed with cookery demonstrations by leading local chefs, the opportunity to sample the seafood, oysters, wine and local ale. Entertainment includes children’s shell painting, sea shanties, live music, oyster shucking competitions and the Falmouth working boat race.

Check out more of what Falmouth has to offer by staying in one of our bespoke retreats in Falmouth.

Image credit: Jamie Johnson

Eden Project Ice Skating

Starting 14 October 2023 until February 2024

Get your skates on, grab a penguin and hit the ice rink at the Eden Project. With music flooding the sound waves, ice sessions for all ages, and sugary hot chocolates to be enjoyed on the sidelines, a spin around the ice rink is a quintessential way to kick off the autumn and winter season in Cornwall.

Minack Theatre

Visit the Minack Theatre, Cornwall’s world famous open-air theatre which is carved into the granite cliff and set in glorious gardens overlooking the spectacular panorama of Porthcurno Bay.

There is a programme of live performances throughout the year, and outside of these performances you can visit the theatre, stand on stage, explore the glorious sub-tropical gardens full of exotic plants and discover the extraordinary story of how it was created.

This October half term, catch children’s shows The Lonely Lighthouse Keeper and Madagascar Junior.

Image credit: Minack Theatre

Hall for Cornwall

Perfect for a rainy day or evening out of the house, Truro’s Hall for Cornwall has an exciting variety of shows, with theatre performances, live music and interactive kids events throughout the year.  This October half term, the line up includes Tom Fletcher’s ‘There’s a Monster in your Show’, James Martin Live, The Manfreds Maximum Rhythm n Blues, alongside Toddler Time which is on every Tuesday morning until December.

‘Pirates’ at Falmouth Maritime Museum

Running until December 2024

Visit the Maritime museum in Falmouth for their latest major exhibition on Pirates! Explore how popular culture has shaped how we think of pirates today and dive beneath the surface to unearth the harsh and terrifying truth.

To find out, immerse yourself in the digital world of the Sea of Thieves game, land on Treasure Island, meet the man behind Long John Silver and dance a hornpipe with Horatio Pugwash before discovering the dark world of the real pirates of the Caribbean.

Discover adrenaline-pumping adventures and unforgettable experiences with Newquay’s wild activities.

Book your October half term stay with 20% off selected retreats.

The forgotten corner of Cornwall

A guided walk on the Morwenstow cliffs by David Myers

The phrases “off the beaten track” and “hidden gem” are often used to describe Cornish beaches and villages, which, upon arrival to the teeming carpark, are evidently anything but. However, Cornish wildnerness guide David Myers would like to introduce you to a place which might well be Cornwall’s best representation of the above terms.

There’s a good chance that you’ve never heard of Morwenstow, the wild and windswept coastal parish at the extreme North end of the county, and there’s a good reason why – it’s literally not on the map (well, a lot of them!). The postcard below is a great example: the 7-mile stretch north of Bude has been chopped off, an unwieldly inconvenience to the map maker.

Fancy staying in a holiday retreat with a hot tub? Check out our cottages with a hot tub for a relaxing getaway.

This isn’t a negative, far from it. It’s a unique quirk about the area which only adds to its feeling of remoteness. An hour’s drive to the nearest dual carriageway, and a further half-hour more to the closest motorway and proper train station, you really have to make an effort to get to this place. But those who do will be rewarded with some of the most unspoiled, stunning and quiet stretches of coastline in the South West. On a sunny August bank holiday, if there are more than 5 people on some of the beaches it’s classified by the locals as busy.

There are no settlements on the Morwenstow coastline, just a string of remote beaches and coves, towering clifftops and rugged coastal scenery. The only building you will encounter is a tiny cabin, constructed in 1843 by an eccentric vicar from the salvaged timbers of a ship wrecked on the jagged rocks far below. It’s been standing there defiantly for the past 180 years, surviving all manner of storms the Atlantic has thrown at it, and serves as a visual reminder to the area’s wild history of shipwrecks, piracy and smuggling. Even the local pub, the Bush Inn, owes its name to a code the smugglers used to distinguish friend from foe.

Fancy staying in Bude, near Morwenstow? Check out our luxury holiday lets in Bude.

Hawker’s Hut by David Myers

That’s not to say the coastline is all that this area has to offer. You can head inland up one of the many deep, wooded valleys, surrounded by ancient oaks. It’s a paradise for walkers and trail runners, with the vast network of paths leading into the parishes of Welcombe and Hartland, forming a network of hundreds of miles of adventure, where you will most likely not encounter a soul.

Bluebell lined woodland trail by David Myers

If cycling is more your thing, the quiet country lanes make an excellent way to explore the area. An electric bike, hidden beaches, a 13th century pub and a tearoom all combine to make an unforgettable day out.

If you’d to experience perhaps Cornwall’s best kept secret then visit www.davidmyers.co.uk or Instagram @davidmyersguide. David is a wilderness guide and Morwenstow native who offers guided walking, trail running and electric bike trips in the area, for people who want to experience the quieter side of North Cornwall and Devon. From easy one-hour history walks, to challenging all-day and multi-day adventures, there’s something for everyone.

Experience the best of nearby Padstow with our guide to a week-long stay, featuring must-see attractions, delicious dining, and picturesque coastal walks.

Discover Sennen

Sennen has it all. A cool, laid-back surf vibe meets traditional fisherman’s cottages and bobbing boats; dolphins dive in the rolling surf; cold pints and pub grub are served at 17th century pubs; and kids and hikers alike soak up the rays along the long stretch of coast.

We recently set off from Gwynver Beach House to explore the area, but you can park at any of the three village car parks (or Gwynver beach car park) if you’re visiting for the day.

See our Relive video from the day.

Let’s go…

Start at Gwynver

To begin your Sennen adventure, set out from Gwynver, a rugged sandy beach with dramatic panoramas from the cliffs above. If you’re staying at Gwynver Beach House, take the short walk from the bottom of your garden, or park up at Gwynver car park and take the steps down to the sand. Be sure to stop for photos at the top, though: this spot offers breathtaking views.

Gwynver beach

If you’re craving some peace and quiet, Gwynver beach is the spot for you. Whether you’re up for picnicking on the sand, catching some waves on your surfboard, or simply basking in the sun’s warmth, Gwynver offers the ideal setting to unwind and recharge. Flanked by sloping cliffs and rocky coastal path, this beach offers a sheltered sunbathing experience.

Coast path

Once you’ve cooled down in the blue waters, head out along the coast path, marked by nature trail signs, which winds around to Sennen Cove. This path is slightly rocky and rugged, with a bit of clambering involved, but its more than worth it for the views as you make your way around towards Sennen.

Dolphins are known to populate this spot, so keep your eyes peeled as you stroll.

Sennen Cove

You’ll arrive at Sennen Cove through the small sand dunes and sea grass. Here, you can stop for another beach nap or paddle, hire surf equipment and take to the waves, or tuck into some snacks and drinks on the sand. This cove is perfect for kids, with its small beach streams, plenty of wet sand for bucket and spade play, and gentle waves between the lifeguard flags, great for bodyboarding.

Want to stay in a luxury holiday house with a view of the sea? Check out our cottages with sea views.

Sennen village

From the sand, you’re close to any kind of traditional beach food or drink you fancy. Walk just a few steps up to The Old Success Inn, a 17th century pub with a large beer garden overlooking the sea. Here, you can sip some local ales, tuck into a pub lunch, and dolphin watch under a parasol.

Head to the Round House & Capstan Gallery, a unique circular art gallery with lovely views through the crooked windows. Here you can pick up some local artwork to take home with you, or get inspired to do some painting of your own during your stay.

It wouldn’t be a trip to Sennen without enjoying some fish and chips. Tuck into the very best locally caught haddock, with lashings of salt and vinegar, either in one of the old-school seafront diners or taken away and enjoyed on the sand.

Day trips nearby

Sennen is in a prime position in West Cornwall, a short drive from some of Cornwall’s most famous attractions and some lesser-known beauties. If you’re staying here for longer, plan a day out and see what’s nearby.

Check out our other locations and other retreats across West Cornwall.

Land’s End

Just a pebble’s throw away from Sennen, Land’s End is an iconic landmark that marks the westernmost point of mainland England. Take a stroll along the cliffs and snap some photos at the famous signpost – it’s one for the Cornwall bucket list.

Minack Theatre and Porthcurno

Discover the magic of the Minack Theatre, an open-air amphitheatre perched on the cliffs overlooking Porthcurno beach. Starlit evenings are best spent watching a show here, snuggled under a blanket.

Porthcurno beach below is a dream on a summer’s day, with hues that echo the greens and blues of the Maldives.

Mousehole

A short drive from Sennen, Mousehole is probably the closest you’ll get to the fully traditional fishing village atmosphere. Cobbled streets conceal tiny art galleries, delis, a local post office and makeshift plant stalls. You may also be able to purchase the catch of the day from a fisherman if you time it right.

Retreats in Mousehole.

Explore more of West Cornwall & unlock the full guide to Porthleven’s sights and activities with our recommendations.

Penzance

This beachy art deco town is home to a colourful array of bars and restaurants, alongside a lido and geothermal pool for 1950s style bathing.

Visit Sennen and stay in one of our retreats nearby, with easy access to beach life.

No drive delights: Portreath

From Glenfeadon Castle, without a car, it’s an early morning coast walk in search of a tidal pool, then kayaking to a secret cove for a picnic lunch…

It’s early August. Storms have swept the UK for the past few days, and the news shows Cornwall’s beachgoers swapping their swimsuits and sunbathing for wave-watching in waterproofs. Today, however, it’s a different story. With the sky over the historic harbour town of Portreath a perfect blue, the rising sun bowls its light down the valley, bouncing it off white walls and windows. The beach looks incredible in the sun.

Interested in staying in our most luxurious holiday cottages? Check out our luxury coastal cottages.

“Down on the beach, we watch a dog walker being pulled by a tangle of pugs, and then ask her how to get to the tidal pool.”

We’re up and out early today, armed with a plan: a bracing dip in the tidal pool that hugs Portreath’s harbour, then the coast path to Porthtowan and back – all before the seasonal front of windbreakers, body boards and beach mats blow in.

We walk past sleepy cottages to a soundtrack of birdsong, through the arch of the old stone tramroad bridge, and across the empty car park. A cold breeze wakes the lungs.

Down on the beach, we watch a dog walker being pulled by a tangle of pugs, and then ask her how to get to the tidal pool. “It’s down them steps,” she says. “But the one at Porthtowan is better.” Given we can still see our own breath, this information feels timely. We decide to walk first, and earn a less bracing dip further round the coast.

Abundant beauty

We’re soon winding up the hill to the start of the South West Coast Path, just past the Pepperpot, an old landmark for passing ships that was once a coastguard’s lookout. Within minutes of going off road, we’re handed a breathtaking gift: as the land falls away under our feet, a crescent of untouched golden sand reveals itself far below, its scattered rocks calling up through the clear blue waters. We fall into the fantasy: imagine that paradise all to ourselves.

“It’s cold, but you have to savour that moment when your head goes under; when time, with all its corners, dissolves.”

Not that we’re feeling crowded. The first time we see other souls, it’s to exchange small talk about how happy they are that they’re going down Ulla Steps – the near-vertical old stairway we just climbed. We’re too out of breath to point out they’re about to have to climb another set we just descended. Later, we’re given a couple of Hobnobs each by a group of women with hiking poles and bright backpacks. We take a snack break on a headland above Sally’s Bottom, another magical cove, and watch the gannets dive.

Tidal pool

We pass Wheal Tye, breathing in the history of the area’s tin mine ruins, and soon find ourselves nearing Porthtowan. A steep rugged descent, and we’re back down to earth, right by the beach. Here, surfers carve elegant lines that mimic the aged hills they’re facing. We’re too early for a coffee at the beach-side Blue Bar. Instead, we scramble over the rocks looking for the sea pool, and find it nestled at the base of the cliff. It’s cold, but you have to savour that moment when your head goes under; when time, with all its corners, dissolves.

“We stop to drift. Time stops again. The only sound is the water lapping – and the dull thud of an errant paddle on plastic.”

The circular route back winds us through country lanes. We peer over farmhouse gates at chickens and family trampolines, and feel a kinship with the t-shirts finally getting to hang in the sun. An unusually long van is parked in a lay-by, its owner sits shirtless, smoking outside. “Morning!” he shouts. “Lovely, innit. I’m just sat here chilling.” His dog suns itself in the middle of the road.

Soon enough, we find ourselves in the woods near Portreath, having joined the coast-to-coast mineral tramway, a popular cycle route that stretches all the way to Devoran. It’s a surprise to realise it’s only lunch time. We begin to discuss food options, keen not to pop this idyllic bubble we’ve created. That’s when we remember the cove. After a coffee and pastry pitstop, we pick up a couple of pasties and shuffle over to the hire centre to see about renting kayaks.

In the shallows, the boarding process is mercifully brief. Soon, we’re like two old sea dogs on our two-seater, albeit with woefully coordinated paddle strokes. Pushing out past the old harbour wall, at the foot of the giant cliffs, we stop to drift. Time stops again. The only sound is the water lapping – and the dull thud of an errant paddle on plastic.

Soon we’re at the cove, dragging our craft up the sand. We unpack our lunch, and sit in the sun.

Discover the culinary delights of Hayle with our guide to eating out, and exploring the vibrant food scene and local flavours that this coastal town has to offer.

Unfolding afternoon

By the time we return to the castle, we’re giddy but exhausted. All that sea air takes it out of you. We make a date: later, we’ll wander through the back gate and up the hill, past the knotty old trees, woodland camps, and the trickling stream, to cap the day eating seafood beneath the setting sun, up at the Terrace restaurant.

But first, we find the perfect way to fill the luxurious gap before we have to move again. We go out to the book cabinet outside, open the flimsy latch, and take out a well-thumbed volume – promising to return it before we go.

With that, we settle in for the rest of the afternoon: feet up on the sofa, cool Cornish cider in hand, reading aloud the opening lines of another new adventure. “One mid-winter day off the coast of Massachusetts, the crew of a mackerel schooner spotted a bottle with a note in it…”

Early morning rambles, paddling to paradise, and uncovering hidden tidal pools – leave the car behind for the day when you stay by the sea…

Fancy staying in Portreath? Check out our Portreath holiday retreats.

No drive delights: Marazion

Setting out from Pilchards in Marazion on foot reveals magical discoveries, a collection of connections around west Cornwall and a picturesque promenade (or pedal) to Penzance…

It’s morning in Marazion, and we’re passing the craft fair stallholders arriving to set up, a fixture by the church every Thursday and Friday. We continue past the jewellery shops and small galleries, the usually busy children’s play area by the car park, eager to be the first one on the beach.

Or one of the first, as it turns out we’re not quite that early. But with so much space on this long stretch of beach, it hardly matters. No one’s yet on the causeway that leads to the majestic spectacle of St Michael’s Mount rising out of the water, a strip of rock that reveals itself like magic as the tide turns.

Fancy staying in a holiday retreat with a swimming pool? Check out our cottages with a swimming pool for a relaxing getaway.

“We’re engrossed as we turn over stones and shift seaweed to one side. We soon spot spiny sea urchins and tiny starfish, small fish and scuttling crabs that shyly duck back into obscurity.”

We sit on the sand to take in the view, and to choose which direction to go in. A small speckled wading bird scurries past in front. The sun’s up, the sky’s blue, and the tidelines, pathways and roads pull in all sorts of directions with the obvious arrow leading to St Michael’s Mount.

Turning over stones

Revealed by the low tide is a rock cluster, like the Mount’s shadow. Young rockpoolers are already there, buckets and scoops in hand, burgeoning natural scientists in the making. We’re intrigued at what they might be finding and clamber onto the rocks – engrossed as we turn over stones and shift seaweed to one side. We soon spot spiny sea urchins and tiny starfish, little fishes and scuttling crabs that shyly duck back into obscurity.

Looking-up, back towards the village and the sea, the waves begin to roll in again, ushering us off the rocks and back onto land. A family have shed their dry robes to venture into the shallows, their first dip of the day, and we settle on walking to Penzance along the Mounts Bay Coast Path, a gentle three-mile flat pathway that edges the coastline, wonderfully walkable and cyclable.

For keen cyclists who’ve left their pedal-powered vehicles at home, there’s the option of hiring a green Beryl bike from the car park just before you start – one of multiple locations across Cornwall. We cross the beach and join the path with a mix of cyclists and wheelchair users, pram pushers and dog walkers.

The joys of seaside cycling; a Beryl bike in Falmouth / Credit: Beryl

 “While the Marazion causeway hides underwater during high tide, there’s an entirely submerged forest off the coast of Mount’s Bay. The Gwelen sculptures or ‘seeing sticks’ designed by artist Emma Smith echo the ancient tree remnants.”

‘Life changing coffee’

Not far into the walk, we reach The Hoxton Special’s blackboard which cheerfully promises ‘life changing coffee’ and ‘most excellent toasties’. We pop in to the shack to order drinks and a bit of cake (why not?) and settle on a picnic bench to gaze back at the Mount.

More than just a café (which also does handy lunchbox salads to take down to the beach), The Hoxton Special is also a compact watersports centre, offering stand-up paddle boards (SUPs), kayaks, and kitesurf hire, plus lessons. From the bench, fellow customers, wetsuits donned, are out on the glittering water, gliding around backed by a lively breeze.

Coastal connections

The coast path is flanked by the sea on one side and the rail tracks that bring GWR passengers into Cornwall on the other. Blue thistles, white daisies and red poppies spring up alongside a wooden sculpture trail.

The Gwelen Sculpture Trail, by artist Emma Smith and design agency Two

Image credit: Two & Emma Smith

While the Marazion causeway hides underwater during high tide, there’s an entirely submerged forest off the coast of Mount’s Bay. The Gwelen sculptures or ‘seeing sticks’ designed by artist Emma Smith echo the ancient tree remnants on the seabed. Featuring commissioned nicks and marks on their surface created by locals, the trail invites an interactive and tactile experience.

We reach Penzance bus station, from where we could choose a convenient hop-on/off route to nearby towns: Mousehole, St Ives, Land’s End, Newlyn.

Want to explore more of Cornwall? Have a look at our Mousehole holiday properties.

Culture centre

Given the glorious weather, we press on walking and reach the beautifully pristine white and blue of Jubilee Pool lido, the sub-tropical Morrab Gardens and the edge of central Penzance, with its ample fill of cultural offerings, boutique shops and cafés.

After a stop-off for a well-deserved lunch in the Tolcarne Inn, sitting at the water’s edge in Newlyn Harbour and a walk around Newlyn Art Gallery’s latest exhibition – too tempting not to continue on to Newlyn – we begin the return journey.

This time we wander through Penzance to pause at The Cornish Hen deli before it closes to get some picnic supplies for the next day. We could walk back along the coast path again, but with tired legs and a bag of new purchases, it feels much easier to hop onto an open-top bus for £2.

The beach at any time, coast paths to uncover, ferries to board – leave the car behind when you stay by the sea…

Uncover the enchanting allure of Fowey’s no-drive delights, where every corner offers a new adventure and relaxation awaits just a stone’s throw away.

No drive delights: Fowey

Image credit: Lily Bertrand-Webb

We explore the landscape from Artists House without a car, from catching the ferry, exploring waterside woodland before walking the coast path to the sea for a swim at Readymoney Cove…

It’s July, peak season in Cornwall. Chevrons of water ripple, spread and fade as a pair of swans and their three young glide past on the calm water. The trees in the woods on either side of the creek move with the wind, and we watch as dozens of house martins dive to the water before flitting back to the nest they’ve made in the roof of the old boathouse. White bellies catching the light, a relay in flight.

“To get to Pont, we caught the ferry from Fowey to Bodinnick, and walked along a trail with moderate ups and downs.”

A bustling quay in the 18th century that saw limestone, fertiliser and coal unloaded from sailing barges, Pont Pill today is deserted. Fowey meanwhile, only three-and-a-half miles away, is busy with visitors by now – one reason we’ve headed upstream. Sometimes, it’s good to find a place to have to yourself. We find a patch of grass on the bank of the creek, sit down, and watch the swans as they float languidly upstream.

Want to stay in a luxury holiday house with a view of the sea? Check out our cottages with sea views.

Image credit: Lily Bertrand-Webb

How to get there

To get to Pont, we caught the ferry from Fowey to Bodinnick, and walked along a trail with moderate ups and downs. It’s known as the Hall Walk. The day started off overcast and cool, but as we made our way through the woods the sun broke through, casting dappled light through the tree canopy.

The views over Fowey are of sailboats lined up all the way down the river as it winds its way to join the sea and clusters of buildings spreading up the hill.

“It’s late afternoon and the crowds have thinned but there’s still a good buzz in the town. It rains, slowly at first, then a downpour, so we make a run for Mardy Bakery on Lostwithiel Street.”

An hour and a half has passed, and the swans are still meandering on what’s left of the water – the tide is on its way out. A family of loud ducks has joined them, along with a couple of gulls. We look around, and we still have the quay all to ourselves.

We could carry on walking along the trail to Polruan to get the ferry back to Fowey – or even opt for a long diversion by first heading towards the South West Coast Path for stunning views out to sea. Rumbling stomachs mean we opt for the shorter route. Golden fields of tall, shimmering grass, Red Admiral butterflies taking off as we wade through, and then more woodland.

Image credit: Lily Bertrand-Webb

And back

Another ferry ride and we’re back in Fowey. It’s late afternoon and the crowds have thinned but there’s still a good buzz in the town. It rains, slowly at first, then a downpour, so we make a run for Mardy Bakery on Lostwithiel Street, a traditional French patisserie. We say hello to Agathe, the owner, and ask how the day has been. Hectic, but good, she tells us. She’s nearly sold out, but not quite so we order a couple of white chocolate Viennese and a cinnamon roll before the other customers get their orders in.

“On the pontoon, a young couple laughs as they bob up and down, mirroring the motion of the water.”

Next stop: Shrew Books, one of Fowey’s many beautiful independent shops, which includes the seaweed pressings and prints at Moleswoth & Bird. At Shrew Books, we spend a good half an hour browsing the shelves, and step out clutching some new books to add to the holiday reading pile. Cutting edge literary fiction, elegant nature writing, compelling non-fiction plus poetry and your next thrilling beach read – the shop may be small, but the range is mighty.

Image credit: Lily Bertrand-Webb

Evening swim

It’s almost dinner time, but after the baked goods we’re unsurprisingly not hungry. So, we set-off along the Esplanade as the sky clears and the day turns towards the evening. We pass young families on their way back to their holiday houses carrying buckets and spades and bodyboards, the outside patio of a restaurant packed with diners as Latin music and the smell of seared meat and garlic drifts out of the open door.

Image credit: Lily Bertrand-Webb

The road starts sloping downwards, and eventually we reach Readymoney Cove. It’s a small, sheltered cove, the first of several choice swimming spots as the estuary meets the sea, with a fair-sized beach when the tide is out, as it is now.

It’s early evening and the beach is empty. On the pontoon, a young couple laughs as they bob up and down, mirroring the motion of the water. We change into our swimming kit (which we luckily remembered to pack), and wade into the water. It’s a little chilly and it bites, but it’s refreshing, and I start to feel the beginnings of the cold water swimmer’s high.

In the water, in between the land and the open sea. I gaze at the horizon. A boat idles along, its engine droning, and the sun begins to set.

Uncover the hidden gems of no drive delights in Marazion, offering unique experiences just steps away.

The beach at any time, coast paths to uncover, ferries to board – leave the car behind for the day when you stay by the sea…

Discover coastal charm at our properties in Fowey, South Cornwall, with Beach Retreats.

Luxury charters with One Atlantek

Atlantek – it’s Cornish for Atlantic

As the sun appears over the hills behind the beautiful port of Fowey, a small crowd of people gather to watch the launch of the stunning Rib, Meraud Atlantek, at Caffa Mill. One Atlantek are getting ready to collect the day’s guests from Albert Quay with a day of adventuring and exploration awaiting the family of four who discovered this luxury charter company having met them at Henley Regatta!

What started as a lunch booking at Sam’s on the Beach in Polkerris has turned into much more.

Visiting Cornwall for a romantic adventure? Check out our romantic cottages.

The guests are welcomed by the operations director and skipper of One Atlantek, Tim. As they listen to their safety brief with a fresh coffee in their hands, The brand new 8 metre Ribeye A811 gently bobs against the pontoon. Lifejackets are handed out and the guests climb aboard. Bags are stowed and before they know it, this lucky family are headed out of Fowey in the bright sunshine ready to start their adventure.

Discover coastal charm at our holiday cottages in Fowey, South Cornwall, with Beach Retreats.

Turning to the left out of the harbour mouth they soon arrive at Lantic Bay. This secluded beach has turquoise water and is a good trek to access it by land. The anchor is dropped and a morning swim is the next priority. Watched by a local Seal who is sunning himself on a rock.

Everyone takes turns jumping off the boat and even the kids are dropping comments about how wonderful this place is.

After 45 minutes it’s time to really up the stakes for this group. Tim has spotted dolphins off in the distance and as the group dry themselves off, they are suddenly surrounded by at least a hundred of these majestic creatures. Three of the pod decide that the bow wave is the place to be and the guests are treated to a twenty-minute lesson in what playing in the water really looks like.

As quickly as they arrived, the dolphins are gone and Meraud Atlantek and her passengers are now in the middle of St Austell Bay looking back at the Cornish Alps in the distance.

With the rising tide, the beaches at Silver Mines are the place to be. With no access from the coastal path, these are as close to a private beach as it’s possible to get and the snorkelling is fantastic.

With time flying by, It’s off to Polkerris to be dropped off at Sam’s. Meraud sits waiting just off the beach and with full bellies and big smiles, it’s time to be whisked around Gribben Head and back to Albert Quay where it all began.

One Atlantek are a small local company with some big ambitions. Created in 2022 by Tim Hogg, One Atlantek deliver a truly unique hospitality experience on board their beautiful Rib, Meraud Atlantek. Half Day (4 hours), Day (6 hours) and Extended day (10 hours) charters are available. Have a talk with Tim about creating your perfect day.

Find out more and book your luxury charter today, the perfect experience during your self-catered stay

Read our blog on the best things to do in the sea in every season!

Beach BBQ tips

When the sun is shining, you want to spend as much of your time away outside and on the beach as possible – and that includes meal times! We recently caught up with our friend Rupert Cooper of Philleigh Way Cookery School (on The Roseland Peninsula) and Cove Café (above the beach at Hayle looking across St Ives Bay), to get his tips for cooking on the coast.

Fancy staying in a holiday retreat with a swimming pool? Check out our cottages with a swimming pool for a relaxing getaway.

“Cooking can and should be as enjoyable an experience as eating, even if you’re not in the comfort of your kitchen” Rupert tells us. All it takes, we’re told, is a bit of preparation and a few tricks of the trade to make beach barbecues so much more than burnt bangers and burgers with a dusting of sand.

The first piece of advice that he has for us all, is to invest in a reusable BBQ such as the fold-able Flatdog made by Cornish company ProQ Smokers, which packs down into a case not much bigger than a large laptop. They’re more efficient, great value for money over the course of their lifetime, and cool down quickly enough that you can carry it back to the car after finishing your dinner and drinks. It turns out that disposable BBQs are bad on a lot of levels. Sure, only a few inconsiderate litterers leave them smouldering on the sand, but even for the rest of us there’s the fact that they cannot be recycled and over one million end up in landfill in this country each year. That’s why Waitrose no longer sell them.

 

Want to stay in Crantock, Newquay near to Fistral and Watergate? Have a look at our properties in Crantock.

 

Rupert’s tip, particularly for the ProQ Flatdog that he takes to the beach for family cook-outs, is not to overfill it with charcoal. “They get super hot, so it’s better to start small and top-up.”

He also advises to take a paper bag of good quality lumpwood charcoal, and a couple of (natural) firelighters. There’s no waste, no flavour taint from synthetic firelighters, and it’s one less thing to carry back to your car or accommodation! You can check out Rupert’s guide to different charcoals for barbecuing here.

“If you use good quality lumpwood charcoal then you can start cooking almost straight away. The only reason we’re told to let a barbecue burn down is because most disposable barbecues or “easy light” charcoal is covered in chemical accelerants that need to burn off so that they don’t taint your food. But with good charcoal you can start charring peppers and aubergines whilst there are still flames, and then start cooking meat or slower cook items once those have died down.”

With our equipment sorted, what’s best to cook for a delicious, easy, and stress-free meal? “Try cooked lobsters!” Rupert tells us. “They’re really easy, there’s no packaging or faff, and they’re super tasty. Just warm them up with butter on the BBQ. Eat them as-is or follow our recipe for home-made tartare sauce or cucumber salsa to make in advance and take them in jars to make classic lobster rolls on the beach.”

Another suggestion is to make simple kebabs and koftas in advance (lamb koftas are delicious and really easy) and you can either make simple flatbreads yourself to cook on the grill, or buy ready-made flatbreads to serve them in with a dash of plain yoghurt and cucumber.

If you’re vegetarian or don’t like the idea of dealing with meat when cooking outside or away from home, preparing portobello mushrooms with butter and herbs ahead of time then wrapping them in foil so that they’re ready to put straight on the grill is a great option.

Any last tips from Rupert? “Ice cold drinks, of course! There are some incredible craft breweries, wineries and distilleries in Cornwall, as well as companies making low-and no alcohol alternatives. If you’re enjoying great food and good times on the beach with family and friends, then make sure you don’t let that part of the picture slip!”

Enjoy the sun, be careful and sensible when cooking outside over fire given the recent dry conditions (this article is about barbecuing at the beach, but you might be barbecuing in a back garden), and if you’re cooking and eating in a public space then please remember to leave no trace.

If you’d like to learn more about the art of woodfired cooking, or cooking in general, during your time in Cornwall then check out the calendar of cookery courses at Philleigh Way Cookery School on the beautiful Roseland Peninsula here. There are courses covering everything from how to make Cornish pasties or various fish and shellfish courses, through different cuisines, baking and of course, barbecue.

Alternatively, if you just want to eat his food with a view over the beach rather than cooking for yourself, Rupert’s latest venture Cove Café, nestled in the low cliff above the sand of Hayle Beach with incredible views across St Ives Bay, is open daily from 9.30 – 4pm with special evening events such as their hugely popular Portuguese chicken nights a regular occurrence.

Want someone else to cook for you? Explore seaside delights with our guide to where to eat and drink by the sea!