
“When you enter the water, something, like a metamorphosis happens […] you go through the looking glass surface and enter a new world…”
Roger Deakin, Waterlog
Clambering across rocks, leaping from cliff ledges into shimmering pools, inching through ancient gullies, swimming into sea caves: coasteering on Cornwall’s rugged north coast reveals hidden Atlantic worlds entered only by the intrepid. As spring ushers in lighter, brighter days and calmer waters, we take a deeper dive into this unique mode of coastal exploration.
“Coasteering is thought to have developed from mountain-starved climbers traversing sea cliffs in preparation for Alpine routes.”
Image credit: Cornish Wave
Elemental adventure
Navigating the wave-lapped fringes of the land – with nothing between body and elements but a neoprene layer of wetsuit – coasteering presents the ultimate immersive coastal adventure: a unique blend of exploration, adrenaline and nature.
The term ‘coasteering’ (an amalgamation of ‘coast’ and ‘mountaineering’) first appeared in the 1973 book Sea Cliff Climbing before being trademarked by a Pembrokeshire company two decades later. According to Jey Massingham, founder of Newquay surf and adventure centre Cornish Wave, “coasteering is thought to have developed from mountain-starved climbers traversing sea cliffs in preparation for Alpine routes.” And, as Jey can attest, it’s an activity made all the more alluring by the calm of quieter seaside seasons.
The perks of off-peak
“In the quieter months, you get this sense of true wilderness,” says Jey. “It feels like you’re out in the big wide open, and you can go hours without seeing another person. You don’t get that same experience in the summertime when there’s paddleboarders and kayakers around and the beaches are buzzing.”
Dale Unnuk, founding director of Big Green Adventures, an award-winning activity centre on Newquay’s Crantock Beach, agrees. “The last few seasons, we’ve had pretty wild and wet summers,” he says. “Whereas spring so far has been absolutely stunning down here. While previously people might have avoided April, May and June, these months are increasingly blessed with the best weather of the entire year.”
Image credit: Big Green Adventures
Walk on the wild side
Coasteering isn’t all about the adrenaline rush – it’s also an opportunity to connect with nature. But in the summer, crowds and coasteering groups swell, meaning more noise and more elusive wildlife, says Dale: “In spring and autumn, we tend to get smaller, adult groups – and lots more encounters with wildlife. We can move more discreetly and find a good spot to watch the wildlife without disturbing their natural behaviour.”
But sometimes, the wildlife wants to join in the fun. On one secret season outing, Dale recalls meeting a particularly playful seal: “We saw the seal at the entrance to one of the caves we use, so we bypassed it because it looked like he was trying to catch fish. But this seal was so interested in what we were doing that he followed us for the rest of the session. Even in pitch-black caves, you could hear him splashing about right behind us.”
““Then there’s all the non-animal life as well,” says Dale, “like the plants, seaweed and algae. It’s an amazing way to feel a part of the local ecosystem.”
Seal sightings never fail to add magic to Jey’s coasteering adventures either: “Seeing a seal up close is different to going on a coastal walk and seeing one out in the waves – when you’re actually in the water and a seal pops up just a few meters away, it gives you an intense appreciation of wild nature.”
Sea birds are another star attraction on Jey and Dale’s coastal explorations. “Then there’s all the non-animal life as well,” says Dale, “like the plants, seaweed and algae. It’s an amazing way to feel a part of the local ecosystem.”
Image credit: Cornish Wave
“As much as everyone thinks that coasteering is all about jumping off things, we see it as a way of educating people about the natural environment and showing them how to enjoy it without damaging it,” says Dale. “If we see plastic waste floating by, we’ll explain why it’s important to clear it up. Being so closely connected to nature has a massive positive impact on people. It’s not abstract – when you’re immersed in the environment, it’s obvious why we must protect it.”
“From bobbing about in natural whirlpools to zooming through narrow zawns (a Cornish term for a steep-sided inlet in the cliff face often formed by erosion), Jey’s team are expert at utilising the flow of water.”
Hidden sea caves and natural whirlpools
While coasteering might not be all cliff jumps and daredevil highs, a keen sense of adventure remains firmly at its core – and Cornwall’s instructors have a mental map of the coastline’s secret caves, coves, gullies and whirlpools, ready to wow their guests.
One of Jey’s favourite local routes starts at a spot he calls “adventure gully,” just up from Newquay Harbour. “Coasteering is all about the journey, and that route’s got all of the elements we look for – opportunities for little jumps, the wildlife, the smugglers’ caves.”
Big Green Adventures run most of their coasteering on Pentire, with route variations dependent on “what direction the swell’s coming from, what stage the tide’s at, and the wind conditions,” says Dale.
The unique geological maze of Dale’s chosen route provides plenty of excitement: “We’ve got an amazing cave system here at Crantock that we’re able to explore, and the geology on our route involves swimming through gullies, which is always a thrill.”
From bobbing about in natural whirlpools to zooming through narrow zawns (a Cornish term for a steep-sided inlet in the cliff face often formed by erosion), Jey’s team are expert at utilising the flow of water – “that gentle up and down motion that the rise and fall of the swell creates” – between rocks for exhilarating fun. “If we find the right spot at the right tidal point, we can whoosh through the gaps between rocks on our stomachs,” says Jey. “And by swimming between sections, you can reach areas inaccessible from land, uncovering hidden rock formations and coves.”
Safety first
Both Dale and Jey are keen to stress that in every coasteering session, safety comes first.
“We always start with the basics, even with the most gung-ho guests!” says Dale. “Simple stuff like nice, easy entries into the water. As guides, we’ll be judging how clients deal with those exercises. We only build up to the bigger stuff, a) if it’s safe and b) if it’s enjoyable.”
“Ultimately, the unique, elemental experience of the world reduced to self, sea, rocks and sky, keeps adventurous spirits coming back for more.”
Image credit: Cornish Wave
Jey echoes this sentiment: “We always start small, and build up in confidence and ability.” Coasteering, he explains, can be tailored to the individual. “If we’ve got a five year old, we could do lots of little jumps for them, but then we could find big 20-footers for Dad. You don’t have to do anything you don’t want to do – it’s very much ‘challenged by choice’. Even just being in the sea might be enough of a challenge for some people.” Wetsuits, helmets and buoyancy aids help to ensure a safe session.
Ultimately, the unique, elemental experience of the world reduced to self, sea, rocks and sky, keeps adventurous spirits coming back for more. “When you’re seeing very wild places with just a wetsuit between your body and the environment, you feel totally immersed in it,” says Jey. “It’s such a good feeling, the energy it gives you.”
Stay in Newquay, Porth or Watergate Bay and explore more of the north Cornish coast…