HAYLE AND ITS TOWANS
Sublime swathes of sea and soft pale sands with room to breathe, bathe and bask in calm, even in peak summer. Walk, surf and explore with us as we tap into one of Cornwall’s better-kept beach secrets.
Harvey’s and Mexico, Riviere and Beach View – as it snakes up the coast, this vast strip of coast assumes many names, managing to elude visitors and locals alike. We’ll keep things simple, tapping into what we’ll dub the Towans, Hayle’s beachside stretch.
Let’s head to the sand…
MANY SHADES OF SHORELINE
When the tides peel back, these far-reaching shores encompass multiple miles of sand, all backed by a nature reserve of marram-grass spiked dunes ripe for scaling (or rolling down), waves calling to be ridden, and rock-pooling aplenty.
And that view.
Expansive horizons meet a broad perspective to the west as the coast huddles around St Ives Bay in the near distance. Cast a glance up to the north side of the sand, and you’ll see Godrevy lighthouse jutting gently from its rock – a sight that illuminated the inspiration for Virginia Woolf’s novel To the Lighthouse.
“These are three miles of playground, often empty for kite flyers, rock poolers and even horse riders to claim, who you’ll occasionally spot cantering along in the shallows.”
FAR FROM THE BEACH CROWDS
Maybe it’s the access to the shore that takes a bit of figuring out – with car parks often reached by meandering through the dune-dotted holiday parks – but the Towans maintains an elusive air, under the radar, a secret hiding in plain sight. Here you’ll find it’s far quieter than busier neighbours lying west and east. Even in the height of summer, you’ll rarely find yourself brushing windbreaks with other beachgoers.
On its most westerly point, and possibly the easiest to access area, comes by way of the bumpy track past Hayle harbour. Here, you’ll find Harvey’s Towans car park, circled by sunbleached clapboard beach houses. As the Towans go, this is where we’d recommend coming with little kids in tow (although you may want to leave the pram behind), with a short walk through undulating dunes to the sloping white sands that brush up against the Hayle River.
Fresh from cutting its course through the town and its working harbour, the river separates Hayle-side sands from Porth Kidney. Strong currents mean you’ll have to keep your feet on terra firma, saving the swimming for further along the seafront stretch. But with three miles to choose from, the ocean truly is your oyster.
You can wile away hours perched on the dune sides, counting each one by the reassuring back-and-forth of the Cornish Riviera train, skirting the coastline as the kids play in the tide-made rock pools.
“Ocean waters are patrolled from four separate outposts by RNLI lifeguards along the dunes, whose red and yellow flags are an open invitation for swimmers and bodyboarders to wade out, bathe and frolic in the shallows.”
Around the corner, the beach expands out to flat open sands as far as Godrevy and Gwithian. These are three miles of playground, often empty for kite flyers, rock poolers and even horse riders to claim, who you’ll occasionally spot cantering along in the shallows.
You’ll find a decent ice cream and a light lunch to write home about at The Cove at Riviere Towans – we’re partial to their smoked beef flatbread with pangratata. But beyond this, a pasty picnic can be one of the simplest solutions for a full beach day here, as rescaling the sandy rumps for food fuelling and loo trips can take some planning and thigh power.
WATER CALLS
Ocean waters are patrolled from four separate outposts by RNLI lifeguards along the dunes, whose red and yellow flags are an open invitation for swimmers and bodyboarders to wade out, bathe and frolic in the shallows.
Outback, as a locally-loved surf spot, when conditions are right, you can expect to see a healthy line-up, but given the space to play with, it rarely, if ever, feels too crowded. Those wanting to up their surf skills or start from scratch, should pay a visit to Hayle Surf School, found at Mexico Towans. Kids, teenagers, and adults will all find co-owner Ruaraidh, with his cool, calm and friendly approach to getting everyone up and standing, a joy to behold.
No mention of this colossal strip of sand is possible without giving a salute to the canines. A huge draw for beachgoers, whether it’s exploring the dunes or letting their hounds roam free on the sand, while other more popular beaches hold fast on their summer-long dog bans, the Towans remains dog-friendly, year-round – so every dog can have their beach day.
Found in the sands
We speak to coffee makers and nature guides as we say hello to Hayle’s beach community.
Image credit: Nik Waites, The Wild Within
Sea moreBeach champion: Hayle Towans
Sam Beverley in our Owner Services team shares her favourite things about these West Cornwall towans.
Sea moreYOUR BEACH. FOUND
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