As summer fades into autumn and winter, a new Cornish coast awakens – a peaceful sanctuary for uncovering endless shoreline secrets.
This #SecretSeason, we’re sharing some of these coastline secrets that are often overlooked in the quieter months, from admiring the changing flora and fauna, tucking into seasonal shoreside flavours to finding shelter in coastal villages with a deep history to be explored…
First up, we go in search of some of the mesmerising beach phenomena that can be found on our shores. Next time you’re coastal, will you spot these phenomena?
Mares’ Tales and Mackerel Scales
A mackerel sky occurs when cirrocumulus clouds gather and drift in parallel rows high in the sky, mimicking the striped patterns of mackerel scales.
Local weather lore adds a layer of mysticism to the dappled cloud formation, identifying mackerel skies as a certain omen of incoming rain. A sailors’ saying that has survived the test of time warns that, “mackerel sky, not 24 hours dry.”
An alternative proverb cautions that, “mares’ tails and mackerel scales make lofty ships carry low sails.” This rhyme links the wispy appearance of the clouds to horses’ tails blowing in the wind. As you look upwards next time the weather’s on the turn, imagine a herd of wild horses cantering across the Cornish skyline and leaving a tempest in their wake.
Other locals refer to the woolly patchwork as a buttermilk sky, referencing the curdled appearance of the clouds. Buttermilk or mackerel, one thing’s for sure. When the sky dons its distinctive stripes, it’s definitely worth packing an umbrella!
Reading the ocean patterns
The arrival of swells from deep in the Atlantic make Cornwall a surfing Mecca in autumn. Longer periods (the time that passes between waves) ensure easier paddle-outs and more sizeable waves to ride. Get ‘out back’ (behind the breaking point of a wave) during a lull and you’ll be in the prime place for when the next round of waves rolls through.
Commonly referred to as a set, these groups of waves are believed to come in threes or sevens, and surfers will tell you that the seventh is always the biggest (although this is anecdotal at best). Sets form far out at sea, drawing their energy from shifting currents, the wind and the seabed. They build in size and power as they organise themselves into ‘travelling groups’, ready to be ridden at their journey’s end when they peak and break shoreward.
The highest point is where the wave will break, so either side of the ‘peak’ is the best place to sit if you’re surfing. Successful wave-seekers can ‘take-off’ on the shoulder of the wave for a full-pelt hit of adrenalin and sea spray. Head to a surf school (open on many Cornish beaches year round) if you’re eager to master the skills and find your own peak to ride. Or grab a hot chocolate, find a sheltered spot to nestle, and watch the diehard wave riders neoprene up, paddle-out and fire down the line. They make it look so easy.
Secrets in the sunlight
As the sun rises, soars and sets over the ocean, shimmering reflections form on the sloping faces of ripples and waves, connecting the shore and horizon. The phrase ‘glitter path’ might be new to you, but if you’ve spent anytime ocean-side on a bright, clear day, it’s likely you’ll have spotted one before.
Glitter paths and golden hours grace Cornwall’s beaches year round but are laced with some extra magic when observed from a secluded shoreline: as if the path is opening just for you. And as another out-of-season bonus, daybreak arrives later through autumn and winter, so no 5am alarms necessary!
For the sharpest, most colourful glitter paths, strike out before dawn and dusk, when autumn sunrises and sunsets turn the sea coral red, and the low rays and steep waves create a broad but more defined causeway across the water. The south coast is the place for sunrises, while the north serves up sunsets in abundance. With Beach Retreats that have views right over the ocean, you might not even need to leave your bed to catch the glitter on a winter sunrise.
Come for the sets or stay with a sea view for 24-hour phenomena spotting this #SecretSeason…