Category: Like a local

Klysa in Cornwall

Klys

adj cosy; snug

With winter around the corner, we explore what it means to get ‘klys’ on the Cornish coast, and discover this cosy concept’s ties to its Danish cousin, hygge…

Find out why Christmas time is the best time to visit Cornwall and some of our holiday retreats to stay in at Christmas time.

The year is 2016, and a Scandinavian cultural phenomenon is sweeping the world. Candles are being lit, cashmere socks pulled on, cinnamon buns baked, and cups of cocoa nursed – all in the name of ‘hygge’.

Defined as “a quality of cosiness and comfortable conviviality that engenders a feeling of contentment or wellbeing,” this Danish term derives from a sixteenth-century Norwegian word, hugga, meaning ‘to comfort’, and has long been a part of the Scandi lifestyle.

Meik Wiking, C.E.O. of Copenhagen think tank the Happiness Research Institute and author of the best-selling The Little Book of Hygge, explains hygge as “the art of creating a nice atmosphere. It’s about togetherness. It’s about pleasure. It’s about warmth. It’s about relaxation. And that is a key cornerstone of Danish culture.”

“If hygge has reached saturation point, then the Cornish ‘klys’ comes as a metaphorical blast of fresh, coastal air.”

Strip away the ‘stuff’ – those fluffy shearling slippers and heart-topped hazelnut lattes – and hygge is at its core all about a feeling, which cannot be bought, but can be created.

A Cornish feeling

While no direct English translation for hygge exists, there is a little-known word that comes very close. And it just so happens to be Cornish.

‘Klys’ is listed in the Cornish Dictionary (AKA the ‘Gerlyver Kernewek’) as an adjective, meaning ‘cosy; snug’, with the verb, ‘klysa’, meaning ‘to make snug’.

If hygge has reached saturation point, then the Cornish ‘klys’ comes as a metaphorical blast of fresh, coastal air. In Cornwall, for every glowing pub fire, there’s the mind-clearing clifftop walk to reach it; for every cottage window seat to curl up in, there’s the spectacle of Atlantic storm-watching.

 “From sharing comfort food with friends and family, to lighting spirit-warming scents and singing folk songs in remote coastal pubs, the opportunities for stoking conviviality and contentment are as varied as they are plentiful.”

Experiencing klys in Cornwall centres on a sense of balance, with the outdoor elemental wilderness making the indoor cosiness feel all the more inviting and impactful.

And with winter around the corner, klys is about to come into its own.

Sublime contrast

Winter in Cornwall stands in sublime contrast to summer. Crowds dissipate, waves crash against harbour walls, congested coast paths clear, villages light up, locals gather, log fires burn, and beaches stretch out, gloriously unspoilt. In short, it’s an unexpectedly brilliant time to visit. Channelling the concept of klys during your off-season stay offers a way to celebrate, rather than shy away from, all that’s soul-stirringly unique about a Cornish winter.

“For a suitably klys experience, why not take an exhilarating natural shower in the sea spray and skin-pummelling rain along the wintry coast path, followed by a mug of mulled wine, with eyes bright and face glowing?”

So how best to cultivate those ‘klys’ feelings on your next getaway to the county? From sharing comfort food with friends and family, to lighting spirit-warming scents and singing folk songs in remote coastal pubs, the opportunities for stoking conviviality and contentment are as varied as they are plentiful – and reach a peak around Christmas. After all, what could be more klys than a festive escape to the sea, complete with blustery beach walks and evenings together by the fire exchanging stories of the day’s adventures?

The village of Mousehole does December in true klys style – festooning its harbour in a spectacularly nostalgic display of Christmas lights. Meanwhile, over in Porthleven (the pin-up of Cornish winter storms), huge seas explode against the clock tower as captivated onlookers watch from within the warmth of the atmospheric Ship Inn.

Check out our holiday properties in Mousehole to experience everything the area has to offer.

For a suitably klys experience, why not take an exhilarating natural shower in the sea spray and skin-pummelling rain along the wintry coast path, followed by a mug of mulled wine, with eyes bright and face glowing? Or, for a less intrepid interpretation of klys, curl up with a book by candlelight or take an essential oil-scented bath while the rain batters the windows of your retreat.

Welcome to cosy season, Cornish-style…

Browse our Cornish locations and find the right coastal spot for your klys retreat….

Explore how to refresh and restore with land&water, your ultimate guide to rejuvenating experiences.

Stargazing rituals by the sea

Our ancestors found wonder and reassurance in the night sky, creating places for stargazing rituals that you can uncover across Cornwall. We went in search of celestial coastal wonder with the help of local astronomer Carolyn Kennett.

Life can be uncertain, but looking up at the night sky might offer us a sense of stability: the unchanged Orion’s Belt, the Big Dipper still staring back at us with its bear-like eyes, and the twin figures of Gemini stretching out their arms towards us.

The sky has more or less looked the same for thousands of years, but if we look further the stars are always moving. One day, albeit in a few million years, the night sky will look nothing like it does today.

It’s possible ancient civilisations found wonder in the sky’s movements and part of the reason they dedicated so much time to stargazing and built monuments to the night sky. The remains of these monuments can be found across Cornwall, giving clues to the rituals of the past, while the clear, dark skies by the coast offer plenty of scope to create your own stargazing rituals on holiday.

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Astronomical tales

Local astronomer, Carolyn Kennett, is well acquainted with Cornwall’s rich astronomical history, and has her own rituals for the region’s star-spotting sites.

“We’ve moved away and lost our connection to the night sky; we forget to look up to see what’s going on,” she says. Creating this deep connection to the stars was always an important part of our ancestors’ lives.

“It’s widely known as a place of ceremony and ritual with strong alignments with the rising and setting of the sun.”

From visiting ancient astronomical sites to sharing folk tales to simply watching stars glide past you in the dark, Carolyn’s tours bring this connection to life. “When you see the Bronze Age monuments from about four thousand years ago, that’s when things get interesting,” she says.

Stone circle sunriseTregeseal Stone Circle (Credit: Carolyn Kennett)

One of the most inspiring spots is at the Penwith Dark Skies Park, West Cornwall. From a stay in westerly properties such as Stella Maris or Sea Salt Sennen, travel through time, to Tregeseal Stone Circle (or The Dancing Stones) a Neolithic Bronze Age monument of nineteen stones.

It’s widely known as a place of ceremony and ritual with strong alignments with the rising and setting of the sun. It’s one of the stargazing tours Carolyn takes travellers on, a magical place to explore in autumn and winter.

Autumnal astronomy

Whether in the steps of ancient settlers or at your own choice of coastal dark sky lookout, one of the first starry delights to spot this season is the Orionid meteor shower. Catch this comet as it passes around the sun, lighting-up the rock and dust that trails it, between 2 October – 7 November.

“The best chance to seize both these celestial moments is from a place with little light pollution and a clear horizon like the cliff tops.”

The month of November has even more in store. The Cornwall Astronomy Society Meeting & Stargazing will meet on 12th November to talk under the stars and see what the November sky holds. It isn’t by chance that a beaver moon (which could turn out to be a red blood moon) will appear the same night.

It’s one of the most breathtaking events of the celestial calendar when the moon turns a red colour as it aligns with both the earth and sun in a complete lunar eclipse.

A few days later, between 12th-13th November, the Taurid meteor shower peaks. It’s a key autumn event with the meteors passing by slowly, creating a long-lasting twinkling in the night sky. You don’t need a telescope or binoculars – simply your eyes to look up and absorb the shining expanse above you.

The best chance to seize both these celestial moments is from a place with little light pollution and a clear horizon like the cliff tops.

With clifftop views out to sea, retreats like Iona in Porthcothan or Skyline and Karn Havos in Mawgan Porth, offer clear night-time horizons on the doorstep.

Fancy staying in Mawgan Porth? Have a look at our Mawgan Porth holiday properties.

Credit: Graham Gaunt Photowork

Solstice skies

With December comes the winter solstice, the shortest day of the year on the 21st of the month and a long-standing time of celebration in many cultures, past and present.

An ancient Cornish monument with celestial connection is Hurlers Stone Circle, created in the early Bronze Age. This ceremonial circle was orientated towards the location of the stars that form Orion’s belt when it was made and it still stands in Bodmin Moor’s Dark Skies Park. It could be the perfect spot for stargazing on the winter solstice.

Stone circle sunrise

Hurlers Stone Circle at sunrise (Credit: Carolyn Kennett)

Wherever you find yourself in Cornwall, there’s a universe of astronomical sights to see. Experience these wonders in your own stargazing ritual by the coast or discover the dark sky places of our ancestors.

Explore the beauty of new traditions with our guide, inviting you to embrace fresh experiences and create lasting memories along the Cornish coast.

Watch and act

Sleeping by the sea means catching a wave at any time when conditions allow, early, late or later still. This is the #beachoutofhours. But before pulling on your wetsuit and reaching for your board, take a few moments to read the surf…

Such is the whimsy of the British weather that you never quite know what to expect when you peel back the curtains from the cosy embrace of your seaside bed. While a day lounging on the beach with a well-thumbed paperback fares better when the sun is sparkling, the sea’s there to be enjoyed come rain or shine.

Want to stay in a luxury holiday house with a view of the sea? Check out our cottages with sea views.

In fact, when it comes to surfing, a touch of mizzle can actually improve conditions, says Charlie Unsworth, who works as an instructor at Croyde Surf Academy in North Devon.

“The rain can actually help the surf as it ‘grooms’ the waves,” he says. “It can patten them down into a smooth state, making it a nice clean ride. You’re wet already, so a little bit of rain doesn’t hurt.”

Check out our other locations and retreats across North Cornwall.

“Ideally, you want a unified wave – so one straight line, not little waves coming in from all angles. That tells you the surf is clean and going to be easier to surf.”

Wave wisdom

Before you spring into your neoprene, however, spend a few moments casting your eye over the horizon to gauge the state of the waves.

Catching a wave in Croyde Bay

Image credit: Lou Pamment @lou.lives.big

“Ideally, you want a unified wave – so one straight line, not little waves coming in from all angles. That tells you the surf is clean and going to be easier to surf.”

When it comes to wind, preferably you want it to be offshore, delaying the break of the wave and keeping it glassy. Charlie says: “Look for a steady blowing wind, ideally not over 15mph, otherwise you end up battling the wind and weather rather than surfing.”

Follow the locals’ lead

Tim Heyland has been surfing the beaches of Cornwall and Devon for over 50 years. For surfing novices, he recommends getting up early and keeping an eye on the traffic.

“A cheat’s way to read the surf is to look at the number of boards heading to the beach. If you see the car park filling up with surfers, you’ll know there’s going to be good waves.

“Obviously a calm day is preferable but those are never guaranteed. Last summer I’d just got in the water at Trevone when a freak hailstorm hit. It was wild but also hilarious.”

“Another tip is to have your surf early in the morning, as there’s very little wind first thing. As the land heats up during the day, the wind generally picks up. It then falls away again in the evening, so before sunset is another good time to get in the water.”

Trevone Bay at low tide

Image credit @steph__andr

Easy access

For people with disabilities, there’s more than just the weather and the groundswell to take into consideration.

“My advice would be to go in the sea just before high tide,” says adaptive surfer and open water swimmer Issy Kingdon, who surfs with The Wave Project. “You’ll have less distance to travel across the sand and you can enjoy it for a good half hour before the tide starts to recede again.”

While beach wheelchairs are available, they tend to book up quickly during the high season. Issy therefore recommends looking for beaches with slipway access to the sea. “Trevone Bay near Padstow is a good example of an accessible beach as you can drive right down and get directly into the sea at high tide” she says.

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“Nothing beats going to the beach to look at the conditions for yourself,” says Tim. “An app might say the surf is ‘poor’, but you can still have fun on little waves.”

“Obviously a calm day is preferable but those are never guaranteed. Last summer I’d just got in the water at Trevone when a freak hailstorm hit. It was wild but also hilarious. As long as it’s safe, you’ve got to make the most of it!”

On RNLI beaches, surfing zones are marked out with the black and white flags, helping surfers know where to paddle out and letting you know that lifeguards are on hand to answer questions and help when needed.

Surf trackers

If you can’t see the surf there and then, apps such as Surfline and Windy provide up to date reports, including information on surf height, swell, wind direction, wind speed and tide times.

While the data is usually pretty accurate, it pays not to be too reliant on technology.

“Nothing beats going to the beach to look at the conditions for yourself,” says Tim. “An app might say the surf is ‘poor’, but you can still have fun on little waves. Or, if it really is all over the place, swap your surfboard for a bellyboard and have a play in the white water.”

However, if the wind is in excess of 30mph or the waves exceed six feet in height Charlie recommends keeping your feet on dry sand: “There’s a phrase, ‘If in doubt, don’t paddle out’. It’s a good one to stick to if you are having second thoughts about getting in the water. Always play it safe rather than take a risk.”

Image credit: Charlie Unsworth

The #beachoutofhours means taking advantage of the conditions whenever they’re right. Find your place to stay to watch the waves and act when the timing suits…

Refresh and restore with land&water

Introducing land&water, the range of natural bath and body products you’ll find in most of our Beach Retreats properties. Our sister company, land&water are closely connected to us through our Watergate Bay roots and share our passion for the coastal elements.

A wide sandy bay on the North Coast of Cornwall; a place where invigoration and calm, alert and serene are endlessly intertwined.

Winding along the cliff path, gazing at isolated patches of sunlight on the sea. Floating ‘out back’ beyond the whitewater, waiting to catch an unbroken wave. Curling in a window seat with a book, while a storm rages outside. Showering after a swim, before sunset dinners and stargazing on the decking…

This ‘active relaxation’ lifestyle that sparked the land&water collection has its roots at Watergate Bay Hotel in Cornwall; land&water founder Pix Ashworth’s family’s hotel, and Beach Retreats’ sister company. As well as appreciating time out on the beach and cliffs herself, Pix has spent many years witnessing the joyful “warm glow” radiating from Watergate Bay guests after days swimming, surfing or walking on the beach.

“It’s a real honour to see people at their most happy and carefree, coming inside after days in the sea air,” she says. “They have that warm glow about them; that natural relaxed feeling, as well as the exhilaration from being active amongst the elements.”

And so Pix set about capturing that feeling; to, quite literally, bottle it.

Created in collaboration with leading apothecarist and perfumer Richard Howard, the land&water collection translates this emotion – and its distinctive blend of invigoration and calm – into its natural bath & body products.

Each recipe uses natural essential oils and actives to evoke the therapeutic benefits of time in the elements, recreating the fresh skin invigoration we feel on the shoreline. The whole collection also embodies painstaking care for the environment that has inspired it.

Like that warm glow, the land&water collection has since radiated out to other locations with similar outlooks, communities and values – whether in the mountains of the Lake District, country gastropubs, London boutique hotels, or national department stores.

The places may vary, but the feeling is always the same…

The blend of invigoration and calm is at the heart of the land&water collection. Created in collaboration with a leading apothecarist and perfumer, land&water products capture this emotion with a blend of buoyant, exhilarating citrus and serene, green and woody notes. Using a 100% vegan palette of fruit, flower and plant essential oils, as well as botanical actives identified through the latest advances in bio-technology (including moisturising and rejuvenating samphire, spike moss and sea buckthorn extracts), land&water blends carefully chosen ingredients with insight, imagination and scientific expertise.

Featuring in most of our properties, Beach Retreats has chosen from the land&water collection: a stimulating hand wash for day-seizing hands, an invigorating zesty body wash, fresh mint, mind-clearing shampoo and moisturising conditioner for high tide hydration.

Sustainability:

As the spark that lit the land&water fire – shaping its philosophy, product concept and very existence – nature is what land&water holds most dear. The brand is committed to treading as lightly as possible on the natural world that has so inspired it – from the sustainable, vegan ingredients it selects,to its 100% post-consumer Prevented Ocean PlasticTM bottles.

The brand has invested in sustainable practices from day one, selecting partners and suppliers whose principles chime with its own, and giving painstaking consideration to its ingredients, manufacturing processes and packaging.

Every product contains:

– Ethically sourced ingredients, 100% cruelty-free

– Only natural, botanical materials in all skin formulations

– High quality essential oils used sensitively and in meaningful quantities

– The full collection is suitable for vegans

– All products are made in the British Isles

– land&water’s packaging ethos centres on re-use, recycle and refill

To sample some land&water for yourself, browse their website here. Or, head to one of our retreats and try it out in a self-catering property by the coast. Our guests receive an exclusive 20% off selected bath and body products, meaning you can evoke memories of your stay and re-awaken that sense of invigoration and calm with the land&water products you explored during your time in Cornwall.

Browse the land&water range

Newquay Wild Activities

“The minibus is buzzing with conversation as we drive the family group back to their hotel. As the youngest son gets out, he hugs the guide and says, ‘I want to be a marine biologist just like you.’”

We recently caught up with our friends from Newquay Wild Activities, who gave us a run down on their latest Rockpool Ramble on Fistral beach.

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Image credit: David Kirwan

The day started when Liz picked them up three hours earlier from Watergate Bay. A lovely group down on holiday and booked with Newquay Wild Activities to experience a rockpool ramble. The van pick up means they can leave their cars in the car park and not worry about navigating the busy Newquay streets. They arrive at Esplanade Green overlooking the world famous South Fistral Beach.

Want to stay in Fistral? Have a look at our luxury holiday cottages in Fistral.

Image credit: Neil Wilkinson

Here they meet their guides, two passionate locals who are as excited as the group to share and explore the rocky shore.

There are some amazing pools on South Fistral that contain a wondrous number of species – each with their own story to tell. Even the seaweed has some secrets to share, if you look close enough. A multitude of shells cling to them for security such as the iridescent blue ray limpet as does the beautiful Stalk Jellyfish.

Stalk Jellyfish by Ivan Underwood

Blue Rayed Limpet by Zeni Hayton

The group wander their way down towards the surf to look at the deeper pools and rocks covered in thousands of mussels and barnacles, always keeping an eye out for wildlife passing by in the bay. Crabs are discovered, fish swim by and shrimps come and play on their toes. Starfish of all types are found – they are incredible creatures that eat algae while clambering over rocks. Did you know they can lose a limb for an easy getaway if they are ever in danger?

Spiny Starfish and Cushion Star by Gwynnie Griffiths

As the tide exposes more rock, anemones begin to close to protect themselves while they wait for the protection of the water.

Anemone by Josh Symes

The group are enthusiastically hunting for more animals as Liz returns with their pasty and drink. A perfect spot to enjoy some sustenance before the slow meander back to the steps.

Amazingly, as they clamber their way off their beach, more wildlife is spotted – a Stone Chat just hanging out on the brambles!

Stone Chat by Josh Howells

There is so much to explore on Newquay’s shores. Liz and the group spend the drive back talking about everything they saw. The guides log all the wildlife information ready to send to the record centre which the group helped to collect (they are now citizen scientists!) and the guides get ready for their next group – this time… a Wildlife Walk around the headlands of Newquay to spot some of the bigger, more elusive wildlife.

Grey Seal by Adrian Langdon

Newquay Wild Activities is a brand-new Social Enterprise set up by Liz and Laura in 2022 – it stemmed from a decade in the marine conservation sector in Cornwall, a fabulous network of friends and colleagues and a yearning to show tourists and locals that Newquay has so much to offer.

Discover what lies beneath our rockpools and the wildlife that shares our shores. Book onto a Rockpool Ramble or a Wildlife Walk with mini-bus pickup included. Learn how to collect valuable scientific data that can help to inform conservation research and national policy. Explore the north Cornwall coastline with experts on hand to guide you.

For more information visit Newquay Wild Activities for the summer dates and activities. Including the spectacular night-time rambles – see what happens in the cover of darkness!

Dive into the exciting world of alternative surf activities in Cornwall and discover new ways to enjoy the waves

Anemone at nightAnemone by night, Josh Symes

Find your fish

A fresh-from-the-ocean catch for dinner – just that bit fresher and tastier when staying by the sea? Time to expand your piscatorial horizons and find out what to pick up at the fishmonger and how to cook it, with Ben Tunnicliffe at Newlyn’s Tolcarne Inn

Newlyn Harbour, on the sheltered west side of Penzance Bay, has welcomed fishing boats with their catch since the 15th century. And it continues to be a thriving fishing port landing multiple species every day, from mackerel and monkfish to John Dory and cuttlefish.

A few hundred yards from the pier is the 300-year-old home of the Tolcarne Inn. An unstuffy pub, it’s lauded for its lip-puckeringly good seafood, which travels from sea to market to plate in hours not days.

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Award-winning chef Ben Tunnicliffe set up in Newlyn in 2012. “In other European ports, seafood restaurants are abundant. Newlyn has arguably the most diverse fish market in the country, so it made sense to open a fish restaurant here,” says Ben, who buys his fish daily from the market or direct from day fishing boats.

“A freshly caught fish will have bright eyes and slimy skin. It also won’t smell of anything.”

Choices, choices

Planning a fresh fish supper? Ben recommends seeking out a local fishmonger and quizzing them on what’s landed that day.

“A freshly caught fish will have bright eyes and slimy skin. It also won’t smell of anything. If it’s starting to smell it means it’s getting old. Be guided by what’s on ice in the shop,” he says.

“If you’re new to cooking fish then have a good chat with the fishmonger. They’ll be happy to answer your questions. They can also prepare it for you, if you need them to, by filleting and pin boning, and then can give you advice on how to cook it.”

Once you get your freshly wrapped fillets or whole fish back to your retreat, Ben recommends not trying to do anything too fancy and risk ruining it by submerging it in an overpowering sauce. Whether it’s a meaty monkfish fillet or a juicy piece of hake, let the delicate flavours shine through and allow the fish itself to do the talking.

“Less is always more,” says Ben. “The simplest way to cook fish is to wrap your fillet in foil with some lemon juice and some herbs stuffed into its belly, season it and then stick it in the oven. Or put it under the grill, as opposed to on top of the grill, or fry it quickly in some butter.”

Gently does it

The biggest faux pas home cooks can make is to overcook their fish, says Ben: “If you think of the amount of raw fish that’s eaten in Asia that tells you not to be afraid of eating undercooked fish. You want it to remain moist and succulent, so it doesn’t dry out. This is a delicate product. Keep it slightly underdone and it will continue to cook in its own steam before you serve it.”

“One of the earliest pieces of advice I got in my career was: ‘what goes together, grows together’”

With fish and seafood prices soaring over the past couple of years, Ben also advises that you experiment with lesser-known species, rather than your traditional coastal favourites: “There’s a huge demand for popular catch like lobster, turbot and mackerel, which means prices are driven up. So, don’t be afraid to try something new and perhaps more affordable.

“Occasionally in the restaurant we have great weever fish on the menu – the fish that buries itself under the sand and can give you a nasty sting. It’s not commonly eaten in this country and people are a little unsure about it but when they try it, they love it.” He recommends asking the fishmonger what’s in season and how they recommend it’s cooked.

Check out our holiday properties in Mousehole to experience everything the area has to offer.

The perfect partner

With your fish taking the starring role on your dinner platter, it’s just a question of which sides to serve. While the humble potato – boiled, chipped or fried – is always a safe bet, look at what else is currently in season.

“One of the earliest pieces of advice I got in my career was: ‘what goes together, grows together’,” says Ben. “If you go to the local veg shop, see what produce is coming off the fields at the moment and it’s likely to match with what’s coming off the sea. It’s a really good tip.”

He offers up this seasonal serving suggestion for half-term holidaymakers: “All the brassicas are in season right now, so take some curly kale and fry it off in a little oil and water. Throw in some finely diced chilli, anchovies, lemon zest and lemon juice, continue to fry for a few minutes, and season. This would be a delicious accompaniment to a baked juicy fillet of gurnard, seasoned with a little olive oil and lemon juice.”

If you’d prefer to let Ben do the cooking, head to the Tolcarne Inn, Newlyn.

Enjoy your pick of coastal culinary treats when you stay footsteps from the shore.

Explore the sustainable practices and rich heritage of fairer fishing in Cornwall, where tradition meets environmental stewardship.

No Drive Delights: Croyde

Setting out from Serenity on foot reveals a hidden coffee hut, a quiet tree-lined footpath and an adrenalin-spiked coasteering adventure away from the jostling beach crowds…

It’s mid-morning on the late August Bank Holiday in Croyde. The village thrums with the excited babble of beachgoers looking to make the most of the generous surf lapping the shore. We escape the throngs and head into the village centre; its quaint whitewashed stone cottages and thatched roofs teasing stories of a bygone age.

Foregoing the ice cream shops and stores that sell surfing paraphernalia, we opt to amble down the lane behind Billy Budd’s pub to pick up a cortado from The Coffee Hatch. This quirky converted horsebox with comfy outdoor sofas and bench seating is tucked away from the main thoroughfare. We then calmly catch our breath while perusing the limited-edition surf tees and hoodies from Stolen Goods art studio next door.

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“We pause to take in the moment, struck that this haven can be found in the centre of a bustling village.”

Caffeine fix found, we meander back towards the beach, following the tree-lined footpath which cuts through the village centre. The path dissects across serene green fields where the only sound is the rustle of leaves and the hypnotic noise of a flock of house martins who duck, dive and dance across the landscape. We pause to take in the moment, struck that this haven can be found in the centre of a bustling village.

Coastline sights

Energised, we follow the coastal path towards Baggy Point which offers exceptional views back towards Croyde Beach. Wave after wave sends holidaymakers bouncing, bobbing and bellowing with delight as they surf, swim and bodyboard on the incoming tide.

The coastline then transforms into a series of folds and fractures with rocky outcrops spilling out into the sea and reaches a crescendo of dramatic cliffs once we cross the headland. We stop to admire the vistas across to Lundy Island and Morte Point, amused by the guttural squawking of herring gulls who skim the cliff face to chastise the humans intruding on their patch.

Discover tranquillity at Gaia, a serene Beach Retreats property

Glad to be wearing our sturdy walking boots, we plough onwards over stiles and gorse towards the unspoilt oasis of Putsborough Sands. However, its silky white shores are an adventure for another day. Instead we ascend the hills and hedgerows back towards Baggy Point car park.

On the rocks

We find refreshment in the form of a Devon cream tea (clotted cream before jam!) within the beautiful walled gardens at Sandleigh Tea-Room. We then wander back to Serenity to pick up our beach towels and swimwear in anticipation of an afternoon’s rock jumping with Coasteering Croyde Bay.

“Blood pumping, we take turns to plunge feet first into a natural swimming pool.”

Kitted out with wetsuits, buoyancy aids and helmets – and armed with useful safety tips – we walk the few hundred yards back along the path towards Baggy Point. Our instructor Albi guides us down onto the craggy rocks which are to be our playground for the next couple of hours. Taking a few moments to find our feet, we soon scramble along the coast, in and out of gullies, discovering the marine life, fauna and seabirds which call this shoreline home as we go.

Blood pumping, we take turns to plunge feet first into a natural swimming pool. As we surrender ourselves to the briny blue and spring back to the surface, it’s hard not to feel pure exhilaration.

“Although the temperature is starting to dip, we give in to kicking off our shoes.”

Dining-out on the dusk

After a day of sea air, it’s tempting to stay at Serenity and pick up a takeaway from one of the seasonal street food vans at our neighbouring campsites. Instead, keen to catch a glimpse of a spectacular sunset, we stroll across the now much quieter beach towards Downend at the opposite end of the bay.

Although the temperature is starting to dip, we give in to kicking off our shoes. Barefoot, the cool grains of sand rub between our toes and sweet sanderlings scurry away from the tide nipping at their heels.

At Downend car park, The Beach Cafe dishes up lip-puckeringly-good Sri Lankan curries during the summer months, which we tuck into, chased with ice-cool beers from Bodhi’s Surf Bar next door. As we gaze out over the horizon, the sun calls time on another day, casting a spectacular glow across the rippling ocean. We take it all in – before slowly strolling back to Serenity.

Quirky coffee stop-offs, havens found, and exhilarating exploration – leave the car behind for the day when you stay by the sea…

 

Discover the charm and beauty of Croyde in North Devon, where stunning landscapes and coastal adventures await with Beach Retreats.

The forgotten corner of Cornwall

A guided walk on the Morwenstow cliffs by David Myers

The phrases “off the beaten track” and “hidden gem” are often used to describe Cornish beaches and villages, which, upon arrival to the teeming carpark, are evidently anything but. However, Cornish wildnerness guide David Myers would like to introduce you to a place which might well be Cornwall’s best representation of the above terms.

There’s a good chance that you’ve never heard of Morwenstow, the wild and windswept coastal parish at the extreme North end of the county, and there’s a good reason why – it’s literally not on the map (well, a lot of them!). The postcard below is a great example: the 7-mile stretch north of Bude has been chopped off, an unwieldly inconvenience to the map maker.

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This isn’t a negative, far from it. It’s a unique quirk about the area which only adds to its feeling of remoteness. An hour’s drive to the nearest dual carriageway, and a further half-hour more to the closest motorway and proper train station, you really have to make an effort to get to this place. But those who do will be rewarded with some of the most unspoiled, stunning and quiet stretches of coastline in the South West. On a sunny August bank holiday, if there are more than 5 people on some of the beaches it’s classified by the locals as busy.

There are no settlements on the Morwenstow coastline, just a string of remote beaches and coves, towering clifftops and rugged coastal scenery. The only building you will encounter is a tiny cabin, constructed in 1843 by an eccentric vicar from the salvaged timbers of a ship wrecked on the jagged rocks far below. It’s been standing there defiantly for the past 180 years, surviving all manner of storms the Atlantic has thrown at it, and serves as a visual reminder to the area’s wild history of shipwrecks, piracy and smuggling. Even the local pub, the Bush Inn, owes its name to a code the smugglers used to distinguish friend from foe.

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Hawker’s Hut by David Myers

That’s not to say the coastline is all that this area has to offer. You can head inland up one of the many deep, wooded valleys, surrounded by ancient oaks. It’s a paradise for walkers and trail runners, with the vast network of paths leading into the parishes of Welcombe and Hartland, forming a network of hundreds of miles of adventure, where you will most likely not encounter a soul.

Bluebell lined woodland trail by David Myers

If cycling is more your thing, the quiet country lanes make an excellent way to explore the area. An electric bike, hidden beaches, a 13th century pub and a tearoom all combine to make an unforgettable day out.

If you’d to experience perhaps Cornwall’s best kept secret then visit www.davidmyers.co.uk or Instagram @davidmyersguide. David is a wilderness guide and Morwenstow native who offers guided walking, trail running and electric bike trips in the area, for people who want to experience the quieter side of North Cornwall and Devon. From easy one-hour history walks, to challenging all-day and multi-day adventures, there’s something for everyone.

Experience the best of nearby Padstow with our guide to a week-long stay, featuring must-see attractions, delicious dining, and picturesque coastal walks.

Luxury charters with One Atlantek

Atlantek – it’s Cornish for Atlantic

As the sun appears over the hills behind the beautiful port of Fowey, a small crowd of people gather to watch the launch of the stunning Rib, Meraud Atlantek, at Caffa Mill. One Atlantek are getting ready to collect the day’s guests from Albert Quay with a day of adventuring and exploration awaiting the family of four who discovered this luxury charter company having met them at Henley Regatta!

What started as a lunch booking at Sam’s on the Beach in Polkerris has turned into much more.

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The guests are welcomed by the operations director and skipper of One Atlantek, Tim. As they listen to their safety brief with a fresh coffee in their hands, The brand new 8 metre Ribeye A811 gently bobs against the pontoon. Lifejackets are handed out and the guests climb aboard. Bags are stowed and before they know it, this lucky family are headed out of Fowey in the bright sunshine ready to start their adventure.

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Turning to the left out of the harbour mouth they soon arrive at Lantic Bay. This secluded beach has turquoise water and is a good trek to access it by land. The anchor is dropped and a morning swim is the next priority. Watched by a local Seal who is sunning himself on a rock.

Everyone takes turns jumping off the boat and even the kids are dropping comments about how wonderful this place is.

After 45 minutes it’s time to really up the stakes for this group. Tim has spotted dolphins off in the distance and as the group dry themselves off, they are suddenly surrounded by at least a hundred of these majestic creatures. Three of the pod decide that the bow wave is the place to be and the guests are treated to a twenty-minute lesson in what playing in the water really looks like.

As quickly as they arrived, the dolphins are gone and Meraud Atlantek and her passengers are now in the middle of St Austell Bay looking back at the Cornish Alps in the distance.

With the rising tide, the beaches at Silver Mines are the place to be. With no access from the coastal path, these are as close to a private beach as it’s possible to get and the snorkelling is fantastic.

With time flying by, It’s off to Polkerris to be dropped off at Sam’s. Meraud sits waiting just off the beach and with full bellies and big smiles, it’s time to be whisked around Gribben Head and back to Albert Quay where it all began.

One Atlantek are a small local company with some big ambitions. Created in 2022 by Tim Hogg, One Atlantek deliver a truly unique hospitality experience on board their beautiful Rib, Meraud Atlantek. Half Day (4 hours), Day (6 hours) and Extended day (10 hours) charters are available. Have a talk with Tim about creating your perfect day.

Find out more and book your luxury charter today, the perfect experience during your self-catered stay

Read our blog on the best things to do in the sea in every season!

Beach BBQ tips

When the sun is shining, you want to spend as much of your time away outside and on the beach as possible – and that includes meal times! We recently caught up with our friend Rupert Cooper of Philleigh Way Cookery School (on The Roseland Peninsula) and Cove Café (above the beach at Hayle looking across St Ives Bay), to get his tips for cooking on the coast.

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“Cooking can and should be as enjoyable an experience as eating, even if you’re not in the comfort of your kitchen” Rupert tells us. All it takes, we’re told, is a bit of preparation and a few tricks of the trade to make beach barbecues so much more than burnt bangers and burgers with a dusting of sand.

The first piece of advice that he has for us all, is to invest in a reusable BBQ such as the fold-able Flatdog made by Cornish company ProQ Smokers, which packs down into a case not much bigger than a large laptop. They’re more efficient, great value for money over the course of their lifetime, and cool down quickly enough that you can carry it back to the car after finishing your dinner and drinks. It turns out that disposable BBQs are bad on a lot of levels. Sure, only a few inconsiderate litterers leave them smouldering on the sand, but even for the rest of us there’s the fact that they cannot be recycled and over one million end up in landfill in this country each year. That’s why Waitrose no longer sell them.

 

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Rupert’s tip, particularly for the ProQ Flatdog that he takes to the beach for family cook-outs, is not to overfill it with charcoal. “They get super hot, so it’s better to start small and top-up.”

He also advises to take a paper bag of good quality lumpwood charcoal, and a couple of (natural) firelighters. There’s no waste, no flavour taint from synthetic firelighters, and it’s one less thing to carry back to your car or accommodation! You can check out Rupert’s guide to different charcoals for barbecuing here.

“If you use good quality lumpwood charcoal then you can start cooking almost straight away. The only reason we’re told to let a barbecue burn down is because most disposable barbecues or “easy light” charcoal is covered in chemical accelerants that need to burn off so that they don’t taint your food. But with good charcoal you can start charring peppers and aubergines whilst there are still flames, and then start cooking meat or slower cook items once those have died down.”

With our equipment sorted, what’s best to cook for a delicious, easy, and stress-free meal? “Try cooked lobsters!” Rupert tells us. “They’re really easy, there’s no packaging or faff, and they’re super tasty. Just warm them up with butter on the BBQ. Eat them as-is or follow our recipe for home-made tartare sauce or cucumber salsa to make in advance and take them in jars to make classic lobster rolls on the beach.”

Another suggestion is to make simple kebabs and koftas in advance (lamb koftas are delicious and really easy) and you can either make simple flatbreads yourself to cook on the grill, or buy ready-made flatbreads to serve them in with a dash of plain yoghurt and cucumber.

If you’re vegetarian or don’t like the idea of dealing with meat when cooking outside or away from home, preparing portobello mushrooms with butter and herbs ahead of time then wrapping them in foil so that they’re ready to put straight on the grill is a great option.

Any last tips from Rupert? “Ice cold drinks, of course! There are some incredible craft breweries, wineries and distilleries in Cornwall, as well as companies making low-and no alcohol alternatives. If you’re enjoying great food and good times on the beach with family and friends, then make sure you don’t let that part of the picture slip!”

Enjoy the sun, be careful and sensible when cooking outside over fire given the recent dry conditions (this article is about barbecuing at the beach, but you might be barbecuing in a back garden), and if you’re cooking and eating in a public space then please remember to leave no trace.

If you’d like to learn more about the art of woodfired cooking, or cooking in general, during your time in Cornwall then check out the calendar of cookery courses at Philleigh Way Cookery School on the beautiful Roseland Peninsula here. There are courses covering everything from how to make Cornish pasties or various fish and shellfish courses, through different cuisines, baking and of course, barbecue.

Alternatively, if you just want to eat his food with a view over the beach rather than cooking for yourself, Rupert’s latest venture Cove Café, nestled in the low cliff above the sand of Hayle Beach with incredible views across St Ives Bay, is open daily from 9.30 – 4pm with special evening events such as their hugely popular Portuguese chicken nights a regular occurrence.

Want someone else to cook for you? Explore seaside delights with our guide to where to eat and drink by the sea!